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Sotheby's New York To Auction 220 Iconic Signed Jewels

Sotheby to auction 220 signed jewels in New York, titled "From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels," featuring over 220 exquisite pieces that encapsulate the epitome of 20th and 21st-century jewelry styles.

Mar 07, 20244.9K Shares123.9K ViewsWritten By: Johnny K.Reviewed By: Luke Williams
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Sotheby's New York To Auction 220 Iconic Signed Jewels

Sotheby to auction 220 signed jewelsin New York, titled "From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels," featuring over 220 exquisite pieces that encapsulate the epitome of 20th and 21st-century jewelrystyles. The auction, scheduled to unfold on Thursday at Sotheby’s New York starting at 10 a.m., promises a treasure trove of iconic designs, including Cartier's “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari's “Serpenti” pieces, and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, among others.

The star of the show, boasting the highest pre-sale estimate, is an 18-karat white goldAsprey necklace and earringsset, adorned with 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamondsand one fancy intense yellow round diamond, totaling an impressive 55.26 carats. This mesmerizing set is connected by links encrusted with pavé-set round diamonds and is anticipated to fetch between $2 million and $3 million.

Also vying for attention is a Harry Winston platinumand diamond necklace, a breathtaking creation set with 150 carats of alternating pear and marquise-shaped diamonds. Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones are meticulously arranged to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garlands, creating a piece with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

Among the historic offerings is a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and ear clips from the 1950s, crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum and adorned with round and single-cut diamonds. Celebrated for its playful originality and technical advancements, the “Zip” necklace, which can transform into a bracelet, is estimated to fetch between $400,000 and $600,000.

Adding to the allure is a Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby and diamond clip-brooch, showcasing the brand's patented setting style from 1933. This masterpiece is expected to garner between $200,000 and $300,000, offering collectors a rare and exquisite piece of jewelry history.

This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.

Bulgari's iconic “Serpenti” necklace, set with a dazzling 141 carats of diamonds, is another highlight of the auction. With a pre-sale estimate ranging from $300,000 to $500,000, this snake-inspired necklace features graduated articulated segments set with round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes, offering both magnificence and versatility.

A pair of ear clips by JAR, crafted in 18-karat gold and silverand set with octagonal-shaped spinels, will also grace the auction. These ear clips, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds, are a testament to beauty and inventiveness, carrying a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

The Cartier classics make a statement at the auction, with the Panthère cuff bracelet leading the charge. Paved with round diamonds throughout its 18-karat white gold construction, the panther's head features marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyxnose, making it an iconic piece with an estimated value of $100,000 to $150,000. Notably, a Cartier Panthère bracelet fetched over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, underscoring the enduring allure of this iconic design.

Cartier continues to captivate with a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, an extremely rare presentation of this classic design. The ladybugs, crafted from coral and turquoiseand dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots, showcase the artistry and uniqueness of hardstone, with a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.

An offering by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. presents a gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer's signature cross-stitch motif. This bold interpretation of texture is expected to be valued between $35,000 and $55,000.

Rounding out the auction is a playful creation by David Webb - a “Twin Frog” bracelet in 18-karat gold and platinum. Set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds, this whimsical bracelet carries a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000, embodying the fusion of luxury and charm.

Final Thoughts

On March 7, Sotheby's New York to auction 220 signed jewels, titled "From the Vault Exceptional Signed Jewels". It is a component of the auction house's "Luxury Week" sales, which showcase exquisite timepieces, wines, whiskies, accessories, purses, and of course, gems. Over 200 items of jewelry are being sold by a single owner who has asked to remain anonymous.

Important items from storied jewelry houses in Europe and the United States are included in the collection. These and the other jewels up for auction have prices ranging from $8,000 to $3 million. The auction house claims that both beginning luxury buyers and seasoned collectors would find the prices appealing.

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